Noted oenophile Dan Berger validates Fyodor's prejudice against Chardonnay.

Dan Berger on Wine

Chardonnay is still the #1 wine that Americans order in restaurants, both by the glass and the bottle. And it's no surprise why: It can be pronounced, it's been around a long time, and it's rather soft and bland.

But I suspect that the first aspect, pronounceability, is why a number of otherwise delightful wines haven't caught on in this country.

The names are "foreign" and hard to say, and you don't know what sort of wine you're going to get.

Not long ago, I tasted a nice wine from Italy made from a grape you rarely see in this country called Refosco. The importer admitted that it was a stretch to get a restaurant to stock it, since few servers are skilled enough to guide diners to it.

Without knowledge of the wine, most people wouldn't even know whether such a wine was red or white. (It's red.)

For all its blandness, Chardonnay remains a "success" — loads of people buy it, even though, largely, it does not go with food.

Ha!

Chardonnay is used merely as a way to wash down food, not to actually improve the taste of it.

Heehee!

When wine is an accompaniment to food, it should have better structure than most Chardonnays these days. In particular, I seek good acidity. It is this trait that has created a number of new categories for U.S. wine consumers, such as Pinot Grigio and its American counterpart Pinot Gris.

Many such wines are a delight when used to accompany lighter fish dishes or as an aperitif, and most should be fairly reasonably priced. Still, the faddishness of some keep prices high. The famed Santa Margherita from Italy sells for about $20 to $25 a bottle, but I saw it on a wine list this week for $60, an absurd price for a totally mediocre wine.

So alternative wines are not only better values, but they can make a lot more sense in terms of taste.

With temperatures now well into the scorch sector, a great alternative white is Sauvignon Blanc, and the 2005 Valley Oaks from Fetzer ($9) delivers more flavor and is a delightful food match. The company also just released an excellent 2005 Valley Oaks Pinot Grigio ($9).

Currently, pink wine is also a fine alternative to the more boring fare, and the 2005 Red Bicyclette from France ($10) is likewise excellent, nearly bone-dry and a great accompaniment to light seafood dishes.

Chenin Blanc also can be a terrific substitute for Chardonnay, and four worth seeking out are Chappellet's bone-dry 2004 at $20, the off-dry 2005 Dry Creek ($12.50), 2004 Ehrhardt ($12) and the 2004 Carvalho ($12).
In red wines, two alternatives are Tempranillo and Malbec.

Tempranillo, the main grape variety of Rioja, is a bit lighter in weight and often shows best in wines designated Crianza — slightly younger than Reserva wines and usually priced about $15.

Argentina's primary red wine grape is the darker, more brooding Malbec, a wilder, spicier sort of wine. Usually a bit heavier, the wine often delivers a substantial amount of fruit. Although Australian Shiraz can be a terrific value, Argentine Malbec is giving the Aussies a run for their money.
Similarly, the 2004 Santa Cristina ($10), a Chianti-like red wine from Antinori, delivers more oomph than most Chianti and works brilliantly with steak and picante sauce.

For those seeking a lighter-weight red wine, try Beaujolais, the chillable red. Those designated as Cru Beaujolais from Georges Duboeuf, including Julienas, Morgon, and Moulin-a-Vent, should be less than $20 and are a delightful match for steak tartare.

Wine of the Week: 2004 El Portillo Malbec, Mendoza ($9) — Rich and heady fruit aromas of plum and wild berries, with just a touch of oak to round out a flavorful, relatively intense wine that tastes like it should sell for twice the price or more.

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County, Calif. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com. To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate Web page at www.creators.com. Copyright © 2006 Creators Syndicate, Inc.