Wine and cheese basics.

PAIRING WINE AND CHEESE
by Dan Berger


Wine's most compatible companion is cheese.

And there's a good reason for that. Both now-sophisticated victuals were sort of bland, boring nerds before going to finishing school. Both are made from rather simple liquids (grape juice and milk); both are inoculated with yeasts; both are fermented to become a lot more sublime than their original base materials, and both are aged for a period of time to achieve a certain depth and complexity. And both are living products that react differently depending on when in their life cycle we get to them.

Either of them experienced past their prime may still be consumable, but they may not be very tasty.

Pairing wine with cheese isn't complicated, but something like American cheese served with a sweet jug wine isn't exactly going to excite the palate.

As a starter, here is a brief look at some of the classic matches that have long been known by those who love wine/cheese pairings. There are dozens of variations on themes here, but the tried-and-true combinations are always a safe bet.

Sauvignon Blanc and young goat cheese. The slight sourness of goat cheese needs the tartness of Sauvignon Blanc. If you have a Sauvignon Blanc that's noticeably sweet, and you have already bought the goat cheese, serve apple slices with the cheese and the wine will blend in nicely. (Quince paste, which can be obtained at gourmet food shops, is the classic "sweet" to pair with cheeses.)

Pinot Noir with a mature Brie. The classic French soft cheese Brie has a roughly two-month life cycle. Early in its life, the cheese is hard and white, but as it ages, it gets a slightly brown rind and the interior of the cheese begins to soften at room temperature. When the wheel is about at 40 or so days, leave it out at room temperature for a couple of hours and then try it with an aged Pinot Noir. It's a sublime experience. Nearing its expiration date, such cheese can become a bit assertive and is generally appreciated most by those with an appreciation of the ammonia-like smell.

Port with Stilton. This English blue-veined cheese, which is typically a bit less salty than some other blues, is a classic match with port. Spread on whole-grain crackers, Stilton is pungent enough to compete with the intensity of port, which is usually served at cool room temperature, but not chilled.

There are, incidentally, dozens of types of blue cheese, with the most popular being Roquefort (from France), Danish Blue (called Danablu), Stilton (England), Gorgonzola (Italy), and the American Maytag from Iowa. A rare but fascinating cheese called Cambozola is a semi-soft with a blue vein.

Dry or off-dry Chenin Blanc with Camembert. If the cheese isn't excessively ripe, it should have a mild sweetness that pairs nicely with the melon and citrus flavors of the wine.

In general, serve bold wines with bold cheeses and mild cheeses with softer wines, like Dofino with Chardonnay. A hearty red wine like a Shiraz would go well with a cheese like Parmigiano or another grana-type. All-purpose cheeses such as medium cheddar and manchego from Spain work nicely with a wide variety of wines, the drier the better.

Wine of the Week: 2003 Wolf Blass Shiraz, Yellow Label, South Australia ($12) -- A superb red wine to pair with hearty cheeses. With flavors of pepper, red fruit, plums and a spicy note in the aftertaste.


Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County, Calif. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com.

To find out more about Dan Berger and read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate Web page at www.creators.com.